The distributor cap, rotor and wires have all been replaced after the engine started running very badly. The distributor is in it's original position when the engine was running fine. On the commonality between #1 and #3 spark timing, I know of none, that's what makes this so weird. This reading has been verified more than once just to make sure. I'll do my best to respond to everyone in order.Īs to the Reference point transmitter, the ohms reading is 987, as well ,as the RPM transmitter. Of course a bad O2 sensor may have effects on the Injection ECU that would cause the symptoms noted by the Chief (who has adamantly declared himself to be "not crazy", you may recall).Ī stumper, upon which I, and no doubt many others, will continue to cogitate. Discovered that triggering the lamp from plug wire #3 results in no visible marks on the pulley, however, moving the pick-up sensor to plug wire #4 shows the marks right where they should be!Īnd although, as rogerspeed noted, you don't use a lamp to time S3, L-Jets, they are very helpful in regard to verifying timing advance via action of the ignition computer, and to a small extent the VSD.Īs an additional confabulating factor, I reviewed Papajam's (?) excellent schematics and confirmed the O2 sensor does not talk to our totally stand-alone ignition ECU and therefore, has no effect on ignition timing. Went to the garage and found my timing light down in a box under my dwell-tach.I never throw anything away. I get very cranky when I have to get off the couch. If other info is necessary to form some sort of opinion then I will gladly give it. Both the Ignition and Fuel ECU's have been replaced along with the main and Drive relays.Īny help or an opinion would be greatly appreciated. None of us have never seen this problem before. I'm not crazy, two other people who are familiar with engines saw this. If the timing light pickup is moved to #3 spark plug, the ignition timing is back in the correct position. When the engine starts and is running the timing mark on the crank pulley disappears and cannot be seen with the timing light. During cranking of the engine, the ignition timing is dead on the mark using a timing light. And it may not start then.ĭuring the standard checks for troubleshooting a puzzling problem was found. It will only start cold and as it warms it starts to run very erratic then will quit running, not to start again until it has sat over night. The car was running then began to run worse over a period of less than a week. It is a good car, and only needs a little TLC.My 1988 Alfa Spider has a unusual ignition timing problem. Fiat.īTW, a friend of mine near Houston was bidding on the same car that you got on BaT. Completely new clutch cylinders are available for $45 from Centerline and Mr. Slowly let up on the pedal and if the clutch begins to engage before you get half way up, you likely have a leaking slave cylinder. Go to your car and, after starting it, push the clutch pedal all of the way to the floor. Those seals only last so many years, and mine were worn out. 2 likely cause, you may also have a leaking clutch slave cylinder. Now, when I let up on the clutch pedal, the clutch does not start to engage until about 60% of the travel up. She has done this many times in our 5 decades of marriage. In a few days it arrived and I installed it, and bled the system of air with the assistance of my wife. Having rebuilt many hydraulic cylinders in my life, I ordered a kit from Mr. The slave cylinder was seriously leaking. Looking under the car a few weeks ago, I was a pool of liquid, which turned out to be the brake fluid from my clutch hydraulic system. I did do the tranny rebuild, which helped a lot, but the tranny still did not shift right. Brian, I own an 89 QV that looks identical to yours, and has just 50K miles.
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